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LOMBOK HISTORY
Lombok is regarded as one
of the most spectacular of all of Indonesia’s islands.
Though visions of idyllic Bali, modern fast paced
Jakarta are conjured up in the minds of the people
whenever, the name of Indonesia crops up, Indonesia is
much more than the relatively well cities and islands
as a whole, Indonesia is also about tempting virgin
beaches, innocent and naïve villagers, simple life
styles and truly exotic cuisine. It is also about
Lombok. Relatively unraveled by time and marauding
travelers from all over the world, Lombok is slowly
but surely revealing herself to the world. The island
of Lombok is to the east of her most famous neighbor,
Bali. The straight which divides these two islands is
very deep with innumerable whirlpools and dancing
dolphins. The history of Lombok gives a fascinating
insight into how the island evolved over the centuries
to become what it is today. Though it is quite a task
to delve deep into the ancient history of Lombok
because of a paucity of chronicled articles, what is
known is that in the ancient times, Lombok had native
rulers who ruled over this province and Selaparang (a
small kingdom) had some control over the eastern side
of the island. It was in the seventh century that the
veil over this island started lifting with outside
influences. Lombok came under the influence of
Balinese and Makassarese of Sulawesi. The Balinese
arrived from Karangasem crossing the Lombok Strait in
the early part of the seventeenth century and around
the same time, the Makassarese invaded the eastern
part of the island. 1677 was a landmark year in the
history of Lombok, it was in this year that the two
intruders managed to subdue the other one. Balinese
won as they had the help of the native Sasak
aristocracy. Henceforth, it became a Balinese
obsession to secure and maintain their control over
this island. However with the passage of time, it was
found that the Balinese control over Lombok had run
into hard times and the beginning of the nineteenth
century saw Pagesangan, Pagutan, Mataram and
Cakranegara competing for the island.
1894 changed the course of Lombok’s destiny. From this
year Lombok began her journey as one of the colonies
of the Dutch. Balinese army had attacked the Dutch
camp in Mayura Palace, Cakranegara. Though the Dutch
escaped, they could not escape casualties to artillery
and man. Now they were determined to pay back the
Balinese and this resulted in their taking total
control of Lombok.
Lombok now started to realize what colonialism meant.
There was abject poverty and they were on the verge of
starvation on more than one occasion. The Dutch wanted
control as well as personal profit. Heavy taxation was
another area of concern for the Lombok population
along with exportation of food materials. The last
straw on the camel’s back was famine which tormented
Lombok for nearly half a century.
So continued Lombok’s tryst with destiny. But suddenly
in 1945, Lombok had a new sun rising . Soekarno
arrogated that Indonesia was independent and Lombok
was also a part of this new order of things. But in
1965, after a difficult two decades, mass killings of
Communist sympathizers and ethnic Chinese created a
scar for ages to come on Lombok. It was President
Suharto who can be credited with much of the growth
and stability of this island, but here it has to be
mentioned that in comparison to Bali and Java’s glitz
and glamour, Lombok comes a poor second. Now this
island is slowly gaining its place under the sun as a
distinguished alternative to Bali in the tourism
world.
Pre
20th Century
The earliest recorded society on Lombok was the
relatively small kingdom of the Sasak. The Sasak
people were agriculturalists and animists who
practiced ancestor and spirit worship. The original
Sasak are believed to have come overland from
northwestern India or Myanmar (Burma) in waves of
migration that predated most Indonesian ethnic groups.
Only a few archaeological relics remain from the old
animist kingdoms, but animism has left its mark on the
culture, although the majority of Sasak people today
are Muslim. Not much is known about Lombok before the
17th century, at which time it was split into
numerous, frequently squabbling states, each presided
over by a Sasak 'prince' - a disunity exploited by the
neighboring Balinese. Balinese princes ruled Lombok
from the mid-18th century until the 1890s, when the
Dutch sided with the Sasaks and defeated the Balinese
in bloody battles. Under Dutch rule, the eastern
islands of Indonesia were grouped together as the
Lesser Sunda Islands, administered from Singaraja,
Bali. Taxes resulted in the impoverishment of the
majority of peasants and the creation of a new stratum
of Chinese middlemen.
Modern
When Soekarno proclaimed Indonesian independence on 17
August 1945, the Lesser Sunda Islands were formed into
the single province of Nusa Tenggara, which means
'Islands of the Southeast'. This proved far too
unwieldy to govern and in 1958 the province was
divided into three separate regions - Bali, Nusa
Tenggara Barat (West Nusa Tenggara) and Nusa Tenggara
Timur (East Nusa Tenggara). In the wake of the
attempted coup and Soekarno's downfall in 1965, Lombok
experienced mass killings of communists, sympathizers
and ethnic Chinese, as did Bali and other parts of
Indonesia. Under President Soeharto's 'New Order',
Lombok enjoyed stability and some growth, until crop
failures led to famine in 1966 and to severe food
shortages in 1973. Many moved away from Lombok under
the transmigrasi (transmigration) programmed. Tourist
development started around 1980, when Lombok attracted
attention as an 'unspoilt' alternative to Bali. While
low budget bungalows proliferated at places like the
Gili islands and Lombok's south coast, big businesses
from outside Lombok became interested and speculation
on beachfront land became epidemic. Lombok's tourism
planning was dominated by the national government in
Jakarta, and many traditional landholders were
displaced as outside business interests moved in.
The political turmoil, economic crisis and civil
unrest that beset Indonesia in the late 1990s did not
spare Lombok. Students in Mataram and Praya staged
protests over the general economic situation as early
as 1997, and the local economy was hit hard by the
general downturn in Indonesian tourism.
Recent
The riots of 17 January 2000 were a surprise and a
shock to most local people. A public community meeting
in Mataram was roused to burn churches and ransack
Christians' houses and businesses. Evidence suggests
that this apparently spontaneous incident was actually
well planned by groups from outside Lombok.
Anti-Christian propaganda had been circulated before
the meeting, there were planted provocateurs in the
crowd and the rioters were directed to a
well-identified series of targets. A high proportion
of Lombok's Christians are ethnic Chinese, and though
the violence was consistently described as
anti-Christian, many observers consider that an
anti-Chinese element was at least a contributory
factor. The effect on the tourist industry was
immediate. The incident caused grave damage to
Lombok's reputation and economy, and despite efforts
to promote the island as a safe destination, the
bombings of 2002 and 2005 in neighboring Bali only
compounded the negative perceptions. Senggigi, the
island's main resort, has suffered particularly badly,
as tour operators have cancelled bookings; however,
the Gili islands have remained popular with
independent travelers.
General Information
Lombok is about three-quarters the size of Bali and is
estimated to have, surprisingly, approximately 2.5
million inhabitants making it slightly more densely
populated than Bali. As mentioned Lombok is only 70
kilometers from Bali and is separated by the
ecologically significant Wallace Line (the Wallace
Line is the demarcation line separating Equatorial
Asia from Marsupial Australia that marks vast and
immediately noticeable changes in the flora and fauna
from Bali).
As well, Lombok lies only 8° (375km) south of the
equator. As such the weather is tropical. Days are
almost universally 12 hours long with sunrise is
approximately 6:20 a.m.; sunset at 6:30 p.m. depending
on the time of year. The daytime temperature averages
between 27° C to 32° C ( 80° F to 90° F) along the
western coastal area (the main tourist venue). Average
temperature inland is 29° C to 34° C. And if you plan
to trek Mt. Rinjani bring a sweater - at 3,726 meters
it is Indonesia's second tallest mountain and gets
surprisingly cold up there.
Lombok's tropical monsoon climate has two distinct
seasons; dry (May to September) and wet (October to
March). Monsoon refers to the wind, not the rain.
However even in the wet monsoon the rain tends to be
short lived and localized. Weather wise May, June are
July are generally considered the best months.
The People of Lombok
Approximately 90% of the population is Sasak with the
majority of the remaining 10% claiming Balinese
lineage. The Sasaks are for the most part Moslem
however there is still evidence of Hindu and Wetu Telu
(an animistic faith) that has incorporated some
aspects of Islam into its practice. The Sasak people
are much more conservative by culture and not as open
as their more famous Balinese neighbors and fare
poorly in comparison. This may be due in part to the
lack of interaction with visitors but for whatever
reason pay no mind the more you learn about Lombok,
the more you'll appreciate the people and the
friendlier they seem to become.
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